Barging in France: Burgundy

Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, an attractive hilltop village 30 km from Dijon, is famous for its castle and its history as a major pilgrimage stop. It played an important defensive role for the road leading to Autun.

Photo credit: Wikimedia – daniel villafruela CC-SA 3.0

Châteauneuf-en-Auxois

The Old New Castle

Châteauneuf is French for “new castle” which it was back in the 12th century. Jean de Chaudenay built the castle in 1132 for his son Jehan. In 1175, Jehan took possession and became Jean I de Châteauneuf. The original 12th-century square tower built by the sons of Jean I (Jean II, and Jean III) still stands.

In 1456, after nine generations in the family, the castle’s era ended when the last heiress—already suspected of killing her first husband—poisoned her second. They burned her alive as punishment for poisoning her second husband.”

In 1457, Philippe le Bon, Duke of Burgundy, gave the château to his advisor and godson, Philippe Pot. He also gave Philippe Pot all the decorative elements you can see today.

Photo credit: Wikimedia – poulpy CC-SA 3.0

Visitors can see a copy of Philippe Pot’s effigy in the chapel. He designed it himself and decided that, no matter what, his family should mourn him. The hooded figures that surround him represent various branches of the family, denoted by the heraldic shields they hold. The original effigy now resides in the Louvre Museum in Paris.

During the Hundred Years’ War in the 14th century, the French added the substantial towers and defensive walls. They substantially modified the castle again in the 15th century and added living accommodations to make it a more pleasant place to live.

The surrounding village developed around the castle during the 12th – 15th centuries, and many of the houses to be seen date from that time. The town center of Châteauneuf-en-Auxois contains many fine merchant houses from that period, built in the local yellow-white stone and having several interesting features and decorated façades to discover as you tour the area.

Then came the French Revolution

In the 17th century, the Vienne family purchased the castle and adorned it with Renaissance-styled interiors. Plush in color and textiles, it showed off their wealth and power, particularly as this was only their weekend home. (Their main home was Château de Commarin, a short distance further up the valley.) The French Revolution in 1789 destroyed the opulence of the château. Many artworks, statues,and heraldic symbols were ruined or defaced. You can still see the results of this ransacking at the château today, along with mock-ups showing what it looked like beforehand.

Modern-Day Châteauneuf-en-Auxois

The family’s descendants owned the Châteauneuf castle until just prior to World War Two. The castle never quite returned to its former glory and, in 1936, the Count Georges de Vogüé donated Châteauneuf to the State. Since 2008 the castle has belonged to the Burgundy-Franche-Comté Regional Council who are continuing restoration work to make it the key showpiece in a regional heritage and culture project. Now considered a time capsule of architecture, the castle is slowly being restored using traditional methods and you can watch its history unfold as you walk through its rooms and courtyards. Besides being a major tourist attraction, the castle is rooted in the collective memory of the region and is part of its very identity.

The Medieval Village

Photo credit: Wikimedia – christophe finot CC-SA 2.5

A small medieval village sits behind the castle walls, with narrow streets and cobbled alleyways connecting them. Have a wander about to see merchants’ houses with towered staircases, and beautiful flowers climbing up walls, while glimpsing intricate detailing and amazing views between the buildings.

The village itself is currently home to about 90 people, a good portion of whom are artists and artisans. Art galleries delight with souvenirs ranging from wooden animal sculptures and vista paintings to snail-inspired jewellery and castle treasures. There is also an assortment of cafés, bars and restaurants set among the ancient buildings where you can enjoy a coffee and have the chance to peek inside these beautiful medieval houses.

At the top of the village, through the north gate there is a walkway past walled gardens. It brings you to a panoramic viewpoint looking down over the canal. Reservoirs dot the countryside, with Pouilly-en-Auxois, the Burgundy Canal’s highest point, visible in the distance.

Ready to Visit Châteauneuf-en-Auxois?

Photo credit: Wikimedia – pline CC-SA 3.0

Discover Burgundy with a barge cruise aboard French Hotel Barge l’Impressionniste. Their online brochure has many details about the barge, itineraries, photos, videos, pricing, availability, etc. Contact Paradise Connections – we are happy to assist with your barging vacation.

Learn about the Canal de Bourgogne

• History of the Burgundy Canal
• Canal de Bourgogne: An Overview
• Canal de Bourgogne: Towns & Villages
• Canal de Bourgone: Best Places to Visit
• View more links about Burgundy
• View French Hotel Barge l’Impressionniste’s online brochure for more details.

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